Frizzing Hair

Frizzing is a technique that helps to give the hair a lot of texture and volume. This technique would be perfect for an Elizabethan hairstyle as I've seen from many Elizabethan portraits that this hair texture is very popular, for example this portrait below of Elizabeth in 1580 this wave pattern looks similar to brushed out frizzing.

(http://trystancraft.com/costume/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/sca-hair-QElizabeth1580.jpg)

How to create the Frizzing texture

• Firstly start with a section of hair place the hair in between a pin, push the pin to the root of the hair and begin to weave the hair in a figure of 8 around the pin. (The smaller the section of hair the tighter the wave and frizz)

• Once you've weaved all the hair around the pin push a bobby pin through the middle to hold the end of the hair in.
• With your straighteners clamp over this for 10 - 15 seconds and leave to cool.

• Pull out the bobby pin and also the pin, this will leave you with a tight wave.

• With this tight wave you can either leave it like this or lightly brush it out.
• Once brushed out style accordingly. 

Elizabethan Inspiration

I started my research by looking for Elizabethan Hair styles that used plaits as I'd seen many portraits where the hair was plaited in different ways. I found four Pictures from the internet that use some kind of plait. 

This Hair style looks very complicated but I love the use of ribbon through the plait and I also like that they've use different types of plaits for example at the bottom there is a fishtail plait and in the middle they've used a basic plait.

I think this hairstyle is very sweet and innocent as the hair is down, in the Elizabethan era hair that was down showed that a lady wasn't married and portrayed youth. This again has different plaits and actually uses beads or pearls placed inside the plait.

I liked these hairstyles as they all incorporated ribbons and this seemed to be typical thing in Elizabethan times. 

This portrait actually demonstrates an Elizabethan Hairstyle. The hair is parted down the middle which seemed to be very popular in those times, again the use of objects such as beads or pearls placed inside the plaits is shown here. 

The project brief - Redheads & Royalty

The ‘Redheads and Royalty’ brief focuses upon collating historical research and technical observations of the hairstyles used in the Elizabethan era.  We can do this by beginning to consider the hairstyles in paintings from the Elizabethan era, but also consider that the various hairstyles and hair colours used by Elizabethan women with references to their age, class and status.  

We are required to create a variety of historically accurate Elizabethan hairstyles in class, you are also going to create a more contemporary version using clear references to a style of Elizabethan hair you are inspired by.  Develop the project by referencing contemporary versions of Elizabethan hairstyles – do this by looking through newspapers, magazines and websites. Gather visual evidence that references Elizabethan hair and begin to consider how you may adapt it to a contemporary style. 

Curling and Crimping

Crimping

• First make sure there are no knots or tangles by brushing the hair.
• Use a rat tail comb to section the hair near the nape of the neck (Make sure to start at the bottom and work your way up)
• Using the section of hair left section a smaller piece a place into the crimping tool – remember this section shouldn’t be thick as not all the hair will be crimped.
• Make sure the section is the same width as the crimping tool.
• Clamp the crimpers on the hair for 5 to 10 seconds (don’t pull the hair when crimping – give a little bit of slack)
• Make sure to crimper right at the root as this will give the most volume.
• When going down the section of hair make sure not miss any hair.
• Once to whole head is crimped wait for the hair to cool completely, use a comb to brush out the crimp this will give a lot of volume.

Curling (Spiral Curl)

• Use a brush to brush out any tangles or knots making the hair easier to work with.
• Using a small barrel tong depending what brand the tool is place the temperature on 25 (if hair is blonde or damaged use a lower setting)
• Use a rat tail to section a small section near the nape of the neck and clip the rest of the hair away.
• Section a small square piece of hair a wrap round the barrel remembering the hair need to go under the clamp.
• Move the clamp while moving down the section of hair to get the ends.
• Once the ends are on the barrel roll the tong up to the root and hold for 10 to 12 seconds.
• Make sure to alternate the curling pattern for example the first curl will fall forward to the second curl will fall backwards.
• When removing the hair from the tong use the clamp and wiggle it slight in order to release the hair.
• Use a curvy grip to hold the tight curl in place – this will stop it falling when doing the rest of the hair.
• Repeat this process for the whole head.
• Once all curls a cool remove the curvy grips and separate each curl – use your fingers to really separate the curls this will give a lot of volume.

Analysis

I really enjoyed both curling and crimping. I found the crimping easier and I loved the texture of the hair after. With my first attempt of crimping I found I wasn’t leaving the crimper on the hair for longer enough and also I need to be careful to give the hair slack in order not to pull the hair.

I also liked the effect the curling gave however I found this was much longer process I didn’t even get to finish half a head. I found alternating the curls hard as I wasn’t sure which were facing forward or backwards, also burnt my fingers in the process. 

Basic Plaits, French Plaits and Fishtail Plaits

Creating a Basic Plait 

• Brush the model’s hair so there are no knots or tangles.
• Separate three equal sections of hair
• Take the right section and cross it over to the middle section.
• Take the left section and cross it over to the middle section.
• Repeat this until there is no hair left to plait.
• Use a bobble to hold the plait in place.

Creating a French Plait

• Brush the model’s hair so it’s smooth with no tangles or knots.
• Start at the hairline gather enough hair from the top of the head and start a regular plait.
• Hold the right section of hair in the right hand, the left section in the left hand and middle section between the thumb and another finger of other hand.
• To begin the French plait cross the right section over the middle section. Then repeat this move with the left section. Make sure the sections are tight as this will prevent it coming undone.
• Before repeating your cross over section with the right section, gather a small amount of additional hair from the right side and add this to the section. Now cross the large section over to the middle of the plait.
• Repeat this same step but on the left hand side and continue to do so down the whole plait.
• Use a bobble to hold plait in place.

Analysis

I struggled at first with the French Braid as I had never tried to do it before, however for my first attempt it didn’t go too badly. I did find it hard getting it tight in order for it to look neater. My second attempt went much better as I knew what I had to do to improve which was to make sure it was tight. I am very pleased with the second attempt as you can clearly see where the braided sections are.

Fishtail Plait

• Make sure hair is brushed with no knots or tangles.
• Get two large sections of hair.
• Take a small outer piece from one of the two sections of hair and cross the small piece of hair over to the other section of hair.
• Continue to do this until there is no hair left.
• Secure with a bobble to ensure it doesn’t fall out.

Analysis

At first I struggled with the fishtail braid as I was over complicating it, however after trying a couple of times and found it really easy. I think this one and the basic braid are the easiest braids to do.

How to create a Bun without a Donut

 This type of bun can be used anywhere on the head for example it can be created at the back or right on the top of the head. However for this demo I created the bun on top of the Model’s head. We used our dolls head to we left a section of hair near the nape of the neck.

• First of you will need to brush the hair so there are no knots or tangles.
• Use a rat tail comb to section the hair remembering to leave the section near the nape of the neck.
• Bring all the remaining hair into a high pony tail using a comb to smooth any bumps, then use a bobble to hold in place.
• To create the bun you will need to section the ponytail into four sections, start by section a section of hair from the front.
• Take this section and begin to backcomb gently from the root to the middle of the section - this will create lift, also remember to backcomb to the section falls forward.
• With this backcombed section smooth it down with a comb and then roll this piece forward – use two fingers to create a barrel shape.
• Use a curvy grip to secure that section down.
• Now repeat this three more times.

• Once you have all four sections in shape, you will notice gaps where the rolls are not joined – use a hair pins to push and manipulate the hair to close these gaps. 
• If you find a section isn't like the rest for example isn't high enough you can simple remove the curvy grips from that section re do without having to completely start again.

Analysis

I really enjoyed creating this bun without a donut, at first I thought I’d find it hard as I personal have always used a donut. However I prefer the look of this bun. I did struggle at first with closing the gaps up with the pin and I did have to re do a section as it wasn’t as high as the rest of the rolls.

I’m excited to try this on an actual model as it’s fairly easy once you've practiced and doesn't take to long but gives you a beautiful hairstyle.

Step by Step Guide to Washing Hair

Preparing the Model

·         

• Wrap either a gown or towel round your model’s shoulders – in order not to stop water dropping on the model’s face or clothes.
• ·    Place model’s hair in basin and begin to feel and inspect hair – you would have already asked questions during the consultation on length of hair, type of hair and whether it’s they’re natural hair colour.

Step By Step

     

1. First check the temperature of the water, always go for a medium temperature – test the water on your hand first then on your wrists to get a more accurate reading.
2.      Start by getting the water through the models hair making sure the hair is completely wet, then ask the model how it’s feeling in regards to the temperature.
3.      Cup your hand around the models forehead in order to direct the water away from the face.
4.      In order to make sure all the hair is wet, ask your model to lift her heads in order to get the underneath.
5.      Once the hair is saturated add shampoo – less is more as you can always add more
6.      Smooth the shampoo through the hair and gently bring down to the ends. Make sure to be firm so that the shampoo starts to foam, if it doesn’t add more water.
7.      Use your fingertips to really work the shampoo into the scalp
8.      Rinse the shampoo out the models hair by moving the hair while putting water through it.
9.      Repeat the shampoo process
10.  Apply conditioner to middle part of the hair all the way down to the ends.
11.  Comb the conditioner through the hair in order to remove a knots or tangles – make sure to take small sections so not to pull hair from the model’s roots.
12.  If the models hair is extremely knotty make sure to hold a section of hair mid way in order to give the hair slack to the scalp.
13.  Rinse the conditioner out of the model’s hair
14.  Place the towel round the model’s shoulders onto the wet hair and pat any excess water
15.  When back at the workstation carefully comb through the model’s hair.
16.  Lastly blast hair dry or style accordingly.